Travelling by train from England, nothing did happen going through the tunnel as I had feared. It was dark instead of grey outside the train window for 20 minutes, the oxygen being pumped in did the right job and no ocean came crashing through the ceiling which was actually a bit of a relief to me, funny as that sounds.
We arrived in the main train station, Gare du Nord, of Paris right on time to a rather grey and dismal day there. We spent a long time trying to figure out where the subway to our hotel was. We could find lines to all sorts of other places but this particular hidden entrance was turning into a bit of a mystery. We decided to try and take a taxi instead figuring the 5-10 minute drive would not break the bank. Exiting the building, I had an Eastern looking woman approach me and give me a note in English saying she had recently arrived in Paris and had a very sick mother and needed money. I gave her 2 Euros then was promptly surrounded by a crowd of similar women. I got angry and told them I already had given money at which they quickly turned on the poor girl who had received the money. We went to get a taxi but were approached by a tout who said he would be able to arrange transport for 30 Euros ($60). We laughed at him and told him not on his life. he looked a little ashamed for a moment but we were already walking back into the train station. We finaly found our subway and descended into the graffiti ridden depths. It didn't feel safe. Eyes were watching us everywhere, sizing us and our rather full backpacks up. We got off at our stop and walked up some stairs to discover the Moulin Rouge windmill. I had no idea it was actually a real place still - I only knew it from the movie of the same name. I was tickled pink to see it there, not realising until later that it indicated we were staying in the sex shop district. We found our way up into the backstreets to our pokey but friendly hotel. We went around to a pasta restaurant recommended by the desk girl and ate the most delicous pasta in the world for dinner. I think the secret behind why French food is so good, is that the chefs are afraid of the complaints if it doesn't pass muster. The people could be pretty scary when they wanted to be.
After a refreshing night's sleep we had a rather average breakfast at our hotel (not many French guests probably), then headed out for a days sight seeing. We started with the Eiffel Tower. Riding up to the top in glass elevators was scary. Marty laughed at me for holding on to the support bar so tight my knuckles were white, but I was terrified to look out as the ground disappeared below us. At the top we had clear views despite the grey sky, to beyond the city limits. We could see the Arc d' Triumphe, the Cathedral of Notre Dame and many other marvellous sights. We walked down the Seine River to the Concord square. On the way a girl we passed suddenly did a dramatic swoop and came up with a gold ring in her hands. We congratulated her on her find. She asked if we thought it was gold - amused, we answered probably and went to move on. She stopped Marty and pressed the ring into his hand blessing him with God's blessings as she did so. Marty and I looked at each other suspiciously - something was up. Sure enough, she turned around and came flying back to ask for money for food and coffee. That was the catch. We grudgingly handed over 4 Euros as we knew we were being duped. We weren't expecting the snarled response of 'That isn't enough - I can't get anything with this!'. Shrugging we departed in a hurry. France does have a welfare system but this is the way of the new open border policy that is being practiced. Beggers and theives come with the workers. Later we saw a similarly dressed woman practicing the same ring deceit on a horrified young man who was refusing to take the ring. Frustrated by more approaches of women with sob stories Marty wrote out an answer on a scrap of paper from my journal: "Hi, My name is Martin and I have not had work for over 9 months now. I have no house or place to live and have a family to support. I don't know when I will have work again and my underwear has not been washed for a very long time. I have nothing to give." The look on the first young lady's face that we showed it to in response to her story was unforgettable. Astonishment is to mild a description! An elderly tourist from Wales asked us how we had got rid of her so we showed him and his wife the note too. They had a good chuckle over it. Their defence was to answer the 'Do you speak English' question with Welsh. That was also a working deterrant.
We went into the Louvre for a peek at the Mona Lisa and a few other treasures. For me, it was just wonderful being in such a beautiful building. Room after room had the most ornate and incredible workmanship of sculpture and moulding worked into the walls. The floors were marble, parquet and other wonderful things I couldn't guess at. We had a coffee there before leaving as I wanted to draw out the visit as long as possible. We walked along further to the Notre Dame Cathedral. The towering walls of stone were so impressive I could have spent a day sitting in there staring and meditating. We were very impressed that no door fee was charged to enter the church - though there were for tours to the roof and to the treasury. We were a little sickened in many countries where entry to the church was forbidden unless a huge fee was paid. We came out and I left Marty comfortably settled in with a glass of wine while I hurried off to buy a pocket sextant I had seen for his birthday the next day. I also bought him wine and crackers and a little bubbly in case he wanted a champagne breakfast.
Collecting him back up again we walked past an outdoor ice rink and sled ride for screaming, laughing children in a small square before making our way back toward the Arc d' Triumphe. This was the true shopping district and we got a couple of Cds to listen do in the car we intended to hire the next day. Back at our hotel we wandered around a little before deciding to repeat our experience at the pasta place. It was a lot more crowded at the later hour and therefore more smokey, but the food was perfect!
The morning of Marty's birthday began nicely. He decided against a champagne breakfast so we ate at the hotel again. We went back to Gare du Nord for a hire car then were on our way. Winding out of the narrow little backstreets of Paris, we headed on the freeway to Belgium to meet up with Marty's cousin Harriet for dinner. She was there on a Rotary Student Exchange program. We were greatly looking forward to seeing her and meeting her host family. The drive there was through a light drizzle. We stopped at a roadhouse for lunch then continued on. I was shocked that there was no border control crossing into Belgium. No stamps in our passport for that one. We drove into the stunning town of and drove around in the rain for a little while before finding the tourist information centre. There they told us where to buy a phone card and find a pay phone to call Harriet. This we did and on calling her discovered she had been sitting in a cafe opposite the visitor information centre the whole time. It was lovely to see her and we enoyed coffee together before going off to meet her family. They were wonderful and fortunately for us who can't speak French, they spoke English. We ate at a pasta restaurant before going back and seeing Harriet's room. Chantelle, the mother, then drove her car for us to follow to a traditional Belgium pub for a place to sleep. That was a fantastic end to the birthday day. After Harriet and Chantelle left, I at last found the chance to give Marty his sextant before the clock ticked over midnight. I think he was slightly stunned at first as it was nowhere close to his wildest imaginations for what I would give him. in fact, I suspect he thought he was just getting a bottle of vino. Once he had a good look though he was pretty happy. We then went down to toast the end of the night with some of the local brew.
In the morning when we checked out we were given a music CD from the pub which was a great way to start the day. We drove back into France by a more back road route and were stopped by some rather comic looking, though very serious, French border guards this time. Driving along the more scenic route was bliss. Every now and then we would come around a corner and there would be a huge stone castle. Other times we drove through little villages with houses stacked onto each other and delicous looking bakeries. The countryside itself was very green and rolled away into the mist. the forests were frequent and were tempting to go and explore - but we were on a mission to Champagne. We drove through to Ebernay where the more famous Champagne houses live. We visited Moet and Chandan then Mercier and drove the champagne trails. The hotel we stayed in recommended a smaller place to visit which became our favourite. Champagnes are made of three types of grapes, this one used only chardonney and was delicious. The wine cellar was beneath the family home and was run as a joint family business.
We drove down to Geneva to meet friends Scotty and Lyn with their son Sage. The last time we had seen them was when we stayed with them in Vancouver at the start of our trip. Since then they had been living and working in Amsterdam. We found them in their hotel room and left Sage with Lyn to nap while Marty and I used Scotty's assistance to find some accomodation.
Settled into our new room we collected Sage and Lyn and went to the train station - the only place with an internet cafe. The lads spent a frustrating hour trying to figure out rental car prices while Lyn and I walked Sage. With no results, we decided it was time for a drink. We ate at a Vietnamese restaurant before calling it a night.
In the morning we decided on a complicated means of Marty driving Lyn and Scotty and Sage to the airport where we picked up a bigger rental car, then returned for me. Scotty and Lyn were to follow us to our rental drop off 10 minutes drive away over the French border. Scotty had his GPS system set on avoiding tolls and it took them over an hour to find us. We on the other hand were having problems of our own. The rental shop was locked up for the weekend, with no drop off box for the key. In the end, after a pointless conversation with the company help desk, we dropped the key through an exhaust fan that opened into the office. When Marty called on Monday they had the key and no issues with it's unusual return method.
From there - a little harassed and frustrated - we piled in together and drove to Chamonix. This is a valley of ski fields on the base of Mont Blanc. Lyn had booked us a lovely chalet in the small town of Les Houches close by. Straight away we went into town and stocked up on supplies and snowboard rentals. We were trying to rent ski pants and getting negatives everywhere. In the last shop we went into, a lovely lady told us it is impossible to rent ski pants in Europe but she could 'borrow us some'. I couldn't believe it! The two pant suits she had were our exact sizes. For free we hit the slopes in true retro skier fashions. Many thanks to that show of kindness.
Scotty and Lyn took first cooking duties and we ate delicious pasta once again. Since reaching France we had yet to get beyond pasta for dinner - but it was so good.
Lyn joined Marty and I for the first day of snowboarding. We went up the end of the valley where the rumour was there would be good snow and fewer people. The ticket desks were not set up for the flood of Bank holiday and last day of school holiday crowds. French people do not queue well! We spent over an hour in line so ended up just getting a half day pass. Surprisingly, once we had our passes we didn't have to queue for a single chair lift the rest of the day. The snow was fantastic, soft and fresh. We went all over the fields sometimes on cat tracks and sometimes through pine forest which was a new experience for me. By the end of our 4 hours we were all starting to feel the effects of using strange muscles and were glad to call it a day. Scotty had taken Sage sledding for the first time and had a lot of fun. He and Marty went down to get his and Lyn's boards waxed and tuned while us girls stayed back to clean ourselves up. We cooked chicken curry for dinner and talked late into the night.
The next day dawned a bit bleak, but it was all go for another day on the snow. Scotty and Marty were keen for a full day of riding so I got suited up to go with them. We took a really long gondola ride over rocks and trees up to a different ski field, then got ourselves well and truly lost with which chairs went where. The riding was still great though despite a lack of visibility. There were no queues anywhere this day and we rode until we were exhausted. Toward the end we started to have snow ball fights. Scotty gave himself whiplash by falling over backwards in an effort to avoid one of Marty's missiles.
For dinner we went into town to a lovely restaurant who served us up cheese and white wine fondue. We ate ourselves silly. We were the first to arrive but soon it was packed out. For a Monday night that was quite impressive.
The next day Marty and I decided we should organise our tickets back to England and began what was to become an absolute mission to get a plane booked from Geneva at a price that wouldn't break our rapidly thinning bank account. I was also trying to contact our friends Martin and Barbara by telephone. After ages at the visitor information center we had no luck and went back to the chalet for breakfast. Once we had ourselves a little more together we went down into the town of Chamonix to do some gift shopping and have a look around. Once again we had no luck with booking our ticket, contacting our friends or gift shopping. Beer was in order. We went home and cooked up fried rice for dinner.
Waking up to a moutain covered in clouds we decided that sorting out our life was more important than snow this day. Originally we had planned to drive through to Italy but the tunnel was shut. Instead Marty and I went and had a terrible time in Chamonix. We looked for somewhere to change money and for the life of us could not gain the attention of a single staff member in any of the little change kiosks around town. In fact one lady shooed us away as she did her mysterious chore below visibility. We spent hours on the internet and Marty found the perfect fare. Midway through signing on it cut him off. he had a reference and phone number so we went to call but the number was a dud. It was time for another beer. To complete our day, we accidently ordered shandies! At this point we had to laugh. Marty went back to the internet cafe and I went to gift shop. I had no luck once more, but this time Marty hit bingo. We had a flight back to England. Even better, I finaly managed to get through to Martin in England and arrange to meet him. In fact, he was to come to the airport to meet us and take us to stay in his home.
With a huge load off our shoulders we joined Lyn and Scotty who were sledding with Sage. We had sled races and sled disasters in very watery snow. It was a great time and good to let off some steam. I managed to make Marty completely wipe out on our first race, but later he was wiser to my wiles and managed to smoke me. Sage thought it was pretty funny when ever someone fell off. It was a good night for take-away pizza.
It was time to hit the slopes again and we went up behing our cabin to the Les Houches field. Taking the cat track across to ridable slopes was a bit of a nightmare as it was icy and so flat we had to keep getting off and walking. Once we got onto the down hills Lyn had had enough so we went back for an early lunch and Scotty came back for the afternoon. The snow slushed up and ended up being brilliant. the sky was blue and we had awesome run after awesome run. This time it was my turn to get whiplash as I went over backwards getting away from one of Scotty's snowball. The irony was that his aim was wild and if I had stood still it would have missed me by miles.
Our last day of riding began with a really icy run down what had been a beautiful slope the day before. A little put off by it, we stopped and had a hot chocolate while we waited for things to soggy up a little. I got a couple of good runs in before lunch. I stayed back and played with Sage for the afternoon while the others went riding then dropped all our rentals back. We had great fun exploring the large backyard and watching Mary Poppins. We went into a pizza place for dinner. It is always sad to hit the last night of time spent with friends.
In the morning there was a madness of packing bags and the car and getting out of the chalet and onto the right road back to Geneva. At the airport there were many people waiting in queues for our jetstar flight. We were sent away to wait until closer to our flight so we made our goodbyes to Lyn and Scotty then went up and had a prolonged lunch. When we came back to the queue it was twice as long again. This time we were allowed to stay. Finally we got through customs only to discover our flight was delayed by 2 hours. The waiting area was completely packed out and there were too many people to even thinking about having a quiet cup of coffee somewhere. It became claustrophobic to me. Eventually we found a place down a long corridor where we were able to read our books until at last we were able to leave.